Coat collar and method of producing and applying the same



Dec. l, 1925.

OLLAR AND METHOD 0F PRODUCING AND APPLYING THE SAME FRANKEL COAT C Filed July z5, 1925 iwan.

Patented Dec. l, 1925.

UNITED STATES IRVING I. FRANKEL, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO.

COAT COLLAR .AND METHOD OF PRODUCING AITLD APPLYING THE SAME. 'i

Application led July 25, 1925. Serial No. 46,158.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, IRvrNG I. FRANKEL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Cincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented a new and useful Coat Collar and Method of Producing and Applying the Same, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention is a coat collar and the method of making and applying the same.

I-Ieretofore it has been the common pracf tice `in the making of coats (when basting the collar thereon), to gather the lower edge of the stand portion of the collar at points over the shoulders (or at the shoulder seams), in order to produce a fullness between these or other prescribed points, enabling ythe collar to set up close to the neck or shirt collar, and at the same time emphasizing the lines of the collar and lapel. This operation when .the basting is done either by hand or by machinev requires great skill and care in properly tailored coats and,

therefore, forms one of the most important and costly operations in coat construction.

. The object of the present invention, therefore, is, first, to replace by relatively inexpensive non-skilled labor an operation now done mostly by hand and (when done either entirely by hand or partly by machine) requiring highly skilled workmanship and operators and, second, to insure the execution of this important operation in coatconstruction with a greater degree of accuracy and a large saving of time, all resulting in a reduction in the production cost` With these and other objects in view, the invention broadly contemplates performing the above described gathering operation prior to the attaching of the collar to the coat, whereby the collar may be applied by a mere stitching or sewing without requiring skilled labor for this particular operation. i

In this specication and the annexed drawings, the invention is disclosed. in the formin which it isconsidered to be the best, but the invention is not limited to such form and method because it is capable of being embodied in other forms and being performed in a different manner; and it is to be understood that by and in the claims following the description herein, it is intended to cover the invention it may embody within the scope thereof.

In the drawings which show the preferred embodiment of the invention as at present employed: Fig. l is a front view of a coat illustratin g the inner collar of the invention, .and with portions broken away over one shoulder to illustrate the relative position ofthe parts when assembled;

Fig. 2 illustrates an inner collar as ordinarily used in coat construction and in its fiat form; Fig. 3 illustrates a portion of the collar illustrated in Fig. 2 folded on the line of Fig, 2 to provide the stand portion of the collar which is gatheredl at its lower edge 1n accordance with the invention;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view of the collar as shown in Fig. 3;

Fig.` 5 is a front View similary to Fig 3 showing the collar including the gathered portion pressed, and v F1g.,6 is a top View of the collar as illustrated in Fig. 5.

Referring in detail to the drawings l0 illustrates a coat collar of the usual construction foldablel on a line substantially represented by w-m on Fig.y 2 which isusually provided by a suitable line of stitching, known as the break, thereby forming the inner or lstand portion of the collar 1l and the outer or leaf portion l2. The collar, as shown in the drawings, is what is generally termed the inner collar, that is, the lining A and stiffening material B without the facing or covering cloth of the suiting, .which latter is commonly known as the outer collar. l

The stand portion of the collar, preferably at its lower edgey and adjacent` the ends thereof, or at such other points aslie about V0r over the shoulder of the wearer, are

gathered, as indicated in Fig. 3, by any suitable means to provide a fullness c in the stand portion at this point which causes the convexed contour as indicated at c,

causing the folded edge or break portion of the collar to be raised as indicated at c to conform to the contour of theneck and to lie closely vthereagainst or against the shirt collar. In the present showing, this gathering is produced on a machine known as a gatherer which gathering is maintained in position by a line of stitching also made by the machine, although any' other means may be employed for producing the gathering and for maintaining it, or for otherwise providing such fullness at the points mentioned on the collar. For instance adhesive may be used or pins, staples and other fastening means, for holding the gathering.

When the collar as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 has been provided, it is ready to be applied to the neck opening of the coat 13 in the usual manner by stitching lei, which may be effected eitherby hand or by machine and without the necessary skill now required to effect the gathering or culling in of the collar at the time the collar is being applied, thus savingjconsiderable time in the operationsnecessary for the application of the collar to the coat and in the labor costs thereon. Of course, itis to be understood that the collar 10 shown inthe drawings is to be covered by an outer collar of suitable material, such as the cloth of the suiting, or on overcoats it may be of velvet.

Obviously the method einployedin practicing the present invention includes, first, the provision of the inner collar inthe usual way, then gathering or fulling in the edge of the stand portion of thccollar to provide a fullness, at points thereon whichoverlie the shoulder, previously to the application of the collar to the coat; then applyingthe collar to the coat by` stitching the same directly tol the coat in anysuitable manner, and then finishing the coat and the collar thereof as usual.

Having thus describedthe invention and in which manner the same shall be performed, what I claim is: l

l. The method of applying, coll-ars to coatsv which consists in gathering the Ystand portion of the collar transversely of its length at spaced points in its length and maintaining said gathering therein prior to the application of thecollar to the coat, and then securing the stand portion of the collar to the coat in the usual manner.

2. The method Vof applying collars to coats which consists in gathering the stand por-tion of the collar along its lower edge portion and onl opposite sides of the bach portion of the collar tol produce a bulging fullness in said stand portion andk maintainingsaid gathering therein, then applying the collan to the coat by an ordinary stitching operation.

3. As a new article of manufacture, acoat collar' having a collar-engaging stand portion, and a leaf portion," and means on said stand portion producing a Vbulging fullness prior to the application of the collar to the coat, said fullness being at points therein to substantially overlie the shoulders of the wearer.

il. As a new article of manufacture, an inner coat collar having stand and leaf por tions, said stand portion being gathered for a distance along the length of the collar, and means for maintaining said gathering in the collar prior to the application of a collar to the coat, said stand portion being adapted to be secured to a coat.

5. As a new article of manufacture, a coat collar having stand and leaf portions, said stand portion being gathered for adistance along the length of the collar at points substantially overlying the shoulders of Vthe wearer, when in applied position onthe coat, and' means for maintaining said. gathering in the collar prior to its attachment to acoat, the collar thus constructed being attachable to. a coat during the construction of the latter. v

6. As a new article of manufacture, a coat collar having a collar-engaging stand portion said stand portion being gathered substantially transversely for a distance at spaced points in itsI length, and a line of stitching maintaining said gathering therein prior to the attachment of the collar to the coat. y

7'. As a new article of manufacture, an inner coat collar having a collar-engaging stand portion, said stand portion being.

gathered for a distance along its lower edge at spaced points in its length and a line of stitching maintaining said gathering therein prior to the attachment ofthe collar to the coat.V

8. A coat collar having a coat-engaging stand'` portion and a leaf portion, said stand portion having permanently maintained transversely arranged gathersA at` spaced positions in its length, whereby a fullness in the collar is produced' prior toits attachment to a` coat. y

9. The combination with a coat of a collar having a stand portion and a leaf portion, stitching connecting the stand portion with the coat, and means independent of 'said stitching for maintaining* transversely arrangedgathers at spaced positions in the'length of said stand portion, whereby a fullness in the collar is produced.

In testimony whereof I have. hereunto set my hand.` f -RVING I. FRANKEL; 

